Preserves Read online

  The rich fertile ‘middling lands’ sustain a fusion and miscellany of fruit-growing – from ribes to rhubarb and much in between. Good crops of blackcurrants flourish in the West Midlands, while the village of Timperley in Cheshire has long been famed for its field rhubarb ‘Timperley Early’ – a cultivar whose name and excellence dominates the rhubarb world. Gooseberries are another popular traditional crop in this part of the country.

  The nineteenth century saw the start-up of gooseberry shows in the North and Midlands counties of Cheshire, Lancashire, Yorkshire, Derbyshire, Staffordshire and Nottinghamshire. Gooseberry enthusiasts grew (and still do in a handful of villages) outsize berries in the hope of winning the premier prize for the heaviest berry of the show. ‘Ringer’, ‘London’, ‘Lancashire Lad’, ‘Lady Leicester’ and ‘Wonderful’ are but a few of these weighty wonders. The berries were weighed by pennyweights (equivalent to 1.555g) and the heaviest ‘London’ ever recorded weighed in at just over 37dwt (58g) in 1852 – quite a monster to meet in a pie! Mind you, no show went without a tipple or two ...

  Gooseberry growers’ anthem

  Come all you jovial gardeners and listen unto me

  Whilst I relate the different sorts of winning Gooseberries

  This famous Institution was founded long ago

  That men might meet and drink and have a Gooseberry Show ...

  Northwards, to the eastern edge of the Pennines, a district has become known as the ‘Yorkshire Triangle’. Here, the heavy clay soil and the cold climate provide the right conditions for forcing rhubarb in darkened sheds during the short days of January and February; the frost is needed to kick-start the growth of the sweet, succulent soft shoots of this indoor-grown crop. The availability of coal from nearby mines was used to heat the forcing sheds until the mid 1980s but the miners’ strike of 1984–5 obliged growers such as Oldroyd’s to use kerosene and propane to heat the sheds, as they still do today.

  To the west of the high Pennines in one of the wettest regions of Britain, the small Westmorland damson thrives in the hedgerows of the Lyth and Winster valleys. Related to the ‘Shropshire’ plum, it has grown here for three centuries or more. The flavour of this damson is unique and the skins provide a deep-purple dye for the northern woollen industry.

  Over the border in Scotland, the cool conditions of the eastern and central counties of Perthshire, Angus and Fife provide excellent growing conditions for raspberries, strawberries and blackcurrants with such names as ‘Ben Nevis’, ‘Ben Hope’ ‘Glen Moy’ and ‘Glen Ample’ confirming their ancestral roots, whilst Tayside is the natural home to the red-black tayberry.

  The chart overleaf gives an indication of principal growing areas in Britain, but by no means are these particular growing areas dedicated to growing only these fruits nor do the fruits listed only grow in them. Most regions, save for the highlands and moorlands, will grow a mixture of produce, and even here the odd elder or blackberry will flourish.

  REGION PRINCIPAL CROPS SPECIALITIES

  South-west – Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset Cider apples

  Eating apples

  Blackcurrants

  Cherries

  Strawberries ‘Dittisham Black’ plum (Devon)

  ‘Kea’ plum (Cornwall)

  Southern England Cherries

  Blackcurrants

  Strawberries Blueberries (south-east Dorset)

  South-east England – Kent, Surrey, Sussex Eating and cooking apples

  Blackcurrants

  Cherries

  Gooseberries

  Pears

  Plums

  Strawberries Cobnuts (Kent)

  Eastern counties – Essex, Cambridgeshire, Suffolk, Norfolk, Lincolnshire Bramley apples

  Cherries

  Gooseberries

  Pears

  Strawberries ‘Cambridge Gage’

  ‘Worcester Pearmain’

  apple

  West Midlands/Welsh Border Blackcurrants

  Damsons

  Eating apples

  Greengages

  Plums

  Pears Perry pear

  ‘Pershore’ plum

  North Midlands Damsons

  Field rhubarb

  Northern England Damsons

  Forced rhubarb

  Eastern and Central Scotland Blackcurrants

  Strawberries

  Raspberries Tayberries

  National – rampant and everywhere Blackberries

  Elderflowers/berries

  Hedgerow fruits and berries

  Apples

  Preserving evokes deep-rooted, almost primeval feelings of self-sufficiency and survival, of gatherer and hunter, for this is how our ancestors stayed alive. These days this all sounds more than a little extreme, but unquestionably a home with a good store of home-made preserves will generate a feeling of warmth and confidence.

  I admit that at times I can get quite carried away thinking of how I can fill shapely jam jars, of the glistening grains of sugar, the neroli-like perfume of Seville oranges ... But I’ve also found that it pays to be aware of a small amount of cold, hard science, and to be familiar with some basic but important practical techniques. Once you understand why food goes off, and how it can be prevented from doing so, your jam-, jelly- and chutney-making can reach new levels of success. Don’t worry, you don’t need a chemistry degree ...

  The simple fact is that any fresh food, unless it is treated in some way, will inevitably decay and become unsuitable for consumption. There are four meddlesome elements that cause spoilage in foods – enzymes, bacteria, moulds/fungi and yeasts – but, if the cook intervenes to prevent or arrest their progress, most foods can be safely kept for extended periods of time.

  The four spoilers

  Micro-organisms are generally viewed as undesirable and if present in sufficient numbers they make food a health hazard. In certain conditions, all micro-organisms will flourish and increase. Some non-harmful micro-organisms are deliberately brought into play in food production, of course – mould in blue cheeses, and yeasts in beer- and bread-making, for example – but it is the harmful micro-organisms that concern us in preserve-making.

  Good food hygiene is the first step in stopping the spoilers. It is essential that all food be handled with care, and all utensils, equipment and work surfaces be spotlessly clean, so as few micro-organisms as possible are present to start with.

  The use of high temperatures is the second way to defeat the tricky foursome – hence cooking being an integral part of many preserving processes. They may thrive in warmth, but they cannot take real heat.

  High concentrations of sugar, acid, alcohol or salt also kill these undesirables, or at the very least make it hard for them to flourish, and nearly all the preserving techniques in this book rely on large quantities of these ingredients to create conditions hostile to enzymes and micro-organisms.

  The final line of attack involves excluding the air which these spoilers need to thrive. This is why well-sealed jars and bottles are essential, and why oil is another important preserving medium.

  Enzymes

  These are not actually organisms, but proteins found in all living things, animal or vegetable, and they perform a huge variety of roles. From a culinary point of view, it’s important to know that enzymes remain active long after food has been harvested, and they function as catalysts for change, triggering and speeding up chemical processes. Enzymes trigger deterioration, for instance, by sparking off changes in tissue that in turn provide a fertile environment for the growth of micro-organisms. The discolouring of cut or damaged fruit or vegetables is also caused by enzyme action. However, if the exposed surface comes into contact with an acid or alkali, the discoloration will slow down. This is why prepared produce is often rubbed with lemon juice or plunged into lightly salted water.

  Enzymes increase their activity at temperatures between 29 and 50°C and will begin to be destroyed at temperatures above 60°C. Their action is also halted at temperatures
below freezing point but will increase again when warmth returns.

  Bacteria

  So small that they are only visible under a microscope, these are the most ancient and widespread form of life on earth. Bacteria increase rapidly at temperatures between 20 and 40°C. They become dormant in the freezer, and are destroyed at or near 100°C – the boiling point of water. Bacterial spoilage of food is sometimes difficult to detect, and although most bacteria are harmless – some even useful – some cause food to rot and become foul-smelling, and their toxins are harmful to health. It is therefore vital not to take any shortcuts with preserving procedures, and to follow all instructions carefully to avoid any form of bacterial contamination.

  Moulds and fungi

  The spores of these micro-organisms are present in the air around us and will take root in almost any food. Initially they produce fine threads, then the characteristic grey-green, cotton-wool-like bloom. Moulds and fungi are dormant at 0°C, thrive at temperatures between 10 and 38°C, and their spoiling activities decrease from 60 to 88°C, which is why cooking is an efficient way to get rid of them. A bit of mould on the top of an open jar of jam should not be scooped off and ignored; as they grow, some moulds produce mycotoxins that can be harmful if eaten.

  Yeasts

  The yeasts found in foods are generally not harmful to health but can cause spoilage. Most species are quickly destroyed at 60°C and above, and are inactivated by cold. Some grow in food containing as much as 60 per cent sugar and badly covered or half-used jars of jam stored in a warm kitchen are prime sites for yeasts to begin to ferment; also gases are produced, which may cause the preserve to ‘blow’ in the jar.

  Potting, packing and sealing

  Proper potting and sealing is one of the main pillars of good preserve-making. If done incorrectly, it can ruin a batch of otherwise perfect preserves. These days, some form of glass vessel with a secure seal is generally used. To reduce the risk of bacterial contamination, it is important to sterilise the container and fully fill or ‘jam-pack’ it with your preserve.

  Sterilising jars

  Any micro-organism lurking in the container you put your preserve into has the potential to grow and contaminate, which is why it is essential to use sterile jars. There are three simple ways to sterilise jars: you can immerse them in a pan of water and bring to the boil; or wash them in very hot, soapy water, rinse thoroughly, then dry them in a very low oven; alternatively, you can simply put them through a hot dishwasher cycle.

  Whichever method you choose, only clean the jars shortly before they are to be used and make sure they are dry. This minimises time in which the jars might pick up new bacteria. Also, all hot preserves should be poured into warm jars (this helps to prevent the temperature dropping before the seal is applied), so you might as well use them before they have cooled down from the drying process.

  Recycling jars and bottles

  I like to reuse and recycle jars and bottles wherever possible. As well as keeping costs down, it gives me a wide variety of shapes and sizes to choose from. However, recycled jars should always be cleaned both inside and outside, then very carefully examined to make sure they are not damaged in any way. Cracks or chips are ideal breeding grounds for bacteria and can also shed tiny splinters of glass that could cause injury if swallowed.

  Old labels on recycled jars should be fully removed. I find the best way of attacking this job is to fully immerse the jars in a pan of cold water, bring to simmering point and simmer for 10 minutes. I then let the jars cool and, when cool enough to handle, rub the label off with the blunt side of a knife. Tamper-seals and labels on lids can be removed in the same way.

  If you do want to buy jars, they are available from specialist shops (see the directory) and are generally sold in certain sizes that comply with the requirements for commercially produced preserves. The sizes are always given as a volume rather than a weight, and the chart overleaf gives the equivalent approximate weight and volume capacities. However, if you are using an assortment of recycled jars, you might find it easier to measure their capacity in volume (just fill them with water then tip into a measuring jug).

  Jar sizes

  Before you start making a preserve, you should check the recipe to see how many jars you will need so you can have them ready.

  METRIC WEIGHT IMPERIAL WEIGHT VOLUME

  113g 4oz 100ml

  225g 8oz 195ml

  340g 12oz 290ml

  454g 1lb 380ml

  680g 1½lb 570ml

  900g 2lb 760ml

  Thankfully, almost all jars share just two or three lid sizes, so lids can often be mixed and matched between various jars and bottles.

  Sealing jars

  Having potted your preserve, the next vital thing is to seal it as quickly as possible to prevent entry of oxygen and airborne micro-organisms. For hot sweet preserves, chutneys and relishes there are two principal ways in which this can be done – with a cellophane cover or a twist-on lid. Pickles and vinegar preserves should always be sealed with vinegar-proof twist-on lids.

  I like to seal fruit cheeses by pouring melted ‘food grade’ paraffin wax over the surface, giving a really traditional finish to the filled pots. The easiest way to melt the wax is to place it in a heatproof bowl (I keep one especially for this) and stand it in a pan of gently simmering water until the wax is liquid.

  Cellophane covers Place a waxed disc, wax side down, on the hot surface of the preserve, then cover the jar with a cellophane disc, securing it tightly with an elastic band. This is best done when the jar is still hot. Cellophane covers can also be applied when the jars are completely cold but should never be put on when the jar is tepid as this can cause mould growth.

  Before putting on the cellophane, make sure the rim of the jar is clean. With a drop of water, moisten one side of the cover to make it stretch, then position with the damp side uppermost. Secure with a rubber band. As the cellophane dries, it will contract to give a tight lid. Packs of waxed discs, cellophane covers, elastic bands and labels are available in supermarkets and kitchen shops, and from mail order suppliers (see the directory).

  Twist-on lids The metal twist-on/off lids that come with most jars are very easy to use and create a good tight seal. Generally, these days, most lids have a plasticised lining that is ‘food law approved’ and suitable for use with both sugar- and vinegar-based preserves. Avoid the use of unlined metal lids with vinegar preserves because they will corrode and spoil the preserve. For the best possible results, I recommend always using new lids, even with recycled jars. Previously used lids are still an option but you must make sure they are not damaged in any way and they should be sterilised by boiling in a pan of water for 10 minutes before use.

  Bottles

  I stash away recycled bottles of various shapes and sizes to use when making cordials, fruit liqueurs, flavoured vinegars and oils. Vinegar bottles with screw-top lids are excellent for flavoured vinegars, cordials and squashes, while small, interesting-shaped spirit bottles are jolly useful for fruit liqueurs and make attractive gifts.

  A good range of bottles can be purchased from specialist suppliers (see the directory), including old-fashioned preserving bottles with a swing-top lid fastening. I particularly like using these nice-looking bottles: made from toughened glass, they are easy to use, the lid is attached and they can be used time and time again. All bottles, lids and corks should be sterilised by boiling for 10 minutes in a pan of water before use.

  Filling and sealing

  Careful potting and sealing at the correct temperature for the particular preserve is important for the keeping quality.

  TYPE OF PRESERVE TEMPERATURE NOTES

  Jams, jellies, fruit butters and cheeses, marmalades Hot-fill (preserve should be above 85–90°C) warm, dry jars, to within 3mm of the rim Allow whole fruit jams and chunky marmalades to stand for 10–15 minutes after cooking, before putting into jars

  Fruit curds Fill warm jars as soon as the curd is cooked For entry into local h
orticultural shows, fruit curds must be covered with wax disc and cellophane seal

  Chutneys, relishes, sauces and ketchups Hot-fill warm, dry jars Remove air pockets by sharply tapping the jars. Use vinegar-proof lids. Some sauces may need to be sterilised in a water bath

  Pickles and sweet pickles Hot or cold-fill clean, dry jars to within 5mm of the rim Use vinegar-proof lids. Remove air pockets by sharply tapping the jars

  Fruit syrups Hot-fill clean bottles and seal immediately To extend shelf life, sterilise in a water bath or oven

  Bottled fruits It is essential to follow individual recipes precisely See Bottled Fruits

  Oil and alcohol-based preserves Cold-fill. Make sure ingredients are totally immersed before sealing Remove air pockets by sharply tapping jars. Seal with a twist-on lid

  Labelling

  Use self-adhesive labels with plenty of space to record what the preserve is and when it was made. Plain labels can be used but there are lots of attractive labels on the market designed especially for preserve-making. If you’re a dab hand on the computer, you can even design your own. Don’t try to stick a label to a hot jar – the glue will melt and it will fall off. Wait until jars are cold before labelling.

  Safe keeping

  A preserve with a good seal should last a long time, although the texture and colour may well deteriorate. None the less, I’d be the first to admit that a murky jar of some old concoction, discovered during a larder clear-out, will have little appeal – and there is always an underlying concern that it might have gone off. The following are guidelines for safe keeping and pleasant eating. (Chutneys, pickles and marmalades, by the way, improve with a maturing period so shouldn’t be eaten straight away.)

  Once opened, look after your preserves. Replace lids securely and keep the preserve in a cool place because, once the seal on a jar or bottle is broken, the contents are vulnerable and can be re-contaminated by micro-organisms.